ViceVersa

ViceVersa sits inside the Elser Hotel in Bayside and works because it does not overreach. The menu stays focused on pizza, a small raw bar, and a handful of Italian plates, and the kitchen executes all of it properly rather than spreading itself across a longer list. The mortadella pizza is the order, a crust that comes out balanced and fast even at a busy service.The cocktail programme is the second reason to go, and arguably the stronger one: Negronis are the house calling card, and martinis…