The Clocktower

It is inside the clock tower of the old Metropolitan Life building on Madison Square Park, which for many years was the tallest building in the world, and the room has the bones to match.Jason Atherton runs it — a British chef with a substantial group of restaurants and a Michelin record to go with them — and what he put in this room is contemporary British cooking, which is a category most Americans still do not quite believe exists. That scepticism is thirty years out of date and this…