Shmoné

Eyal Shani is one of the most recognisable chefs in Israel, known for a style that is aggressively simple — a whole roasted cauliflower, a tomato, bread — and for an emotional, almost evangelical way of talking about vegetables that would be unbearable if the food did not back it up.Shmoné is his Greenwich Village restaurant, with Orianne Shapira as executive chef, and it is the most serious version of what he does. It earned a Michelin star in 2023 and kept it the following year, which for a…