Little Sparrow

Ford Fry closed JCT Kitchen at the end of 2021, walking away from a Westside institution that had served Southern classics on Howell Mill Road for nearly fifteen years and trained a wide swath of the city's current cooks along the way, saying only that he wanted to do something that would benefit the neighborhood. What arrived in the same room in October 2023 was Little Sparrow, an American brasserie named for Edith Piaf, and a deliberate turning of the page: there is no fried chicken on the…