La Vara

*Comida casera* means home cooking, and it is a deliberately modest phrase for a restaurant this accomplished.Alexandra Raij and Eder Montero run it in Cobble Hill, and what they cook is Spanish — but specifically Andalusian, and specifically drawing on the Moorish and Sephardic traditions that shaped southern Spanish food over centuries before the expulsions of 1492 and that have never entirely left it. That is a genuinely unusual subject for an American restaurant, and it produces flavours…