Huso

It is a restaurant inside a caviar shop. Marky's Caviar has been selling roe in New York for decades, and Huso is the tasting-menu room built into its Tribeca location, which means the sourcing question that dominates most fine-dining kitchens has already been answered before service starts.*Huso* is the genus name for beluga sturgeon, and the restaurant is built around caviar service in a way that no other room in America is. That could easily be a one-note proposition. What keeps it from…