Employees Only

It was a classic the week it opened in 2004 and it has been imitated so thoroughly since that walking in now feels like visiting the original of something you have seen everywhere.There's a tarot card reader in the front window. You walk past her into a room that is unapologetically 1920s — Art Deco, dark, buzzing, with white-jacketed bartenders working a long bar and a dining room behind it that stays busy until very late. It is a supper club in the true sense: drinking and eating and staying,…